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6th kyu |
I contact Canadian Distributors to see who makes this transformer for Peluso. They said they could get more information next week when Peluso's door's are open again. |
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3rd kyu |
I'm pretty sure the transformer is made in Japan, to his spec. It'll sound ok, but the impedence is not correct AFAIK. The AMI/TabFunkenwerk. BV314 is the core of the 47 type trannie but has the correct winding for a C12-ish mic/tube combo....which is what you have in a 460....
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6th kyu |
I guess I"ll just bite the bullet and go with the AMI/Tab.. a little more but why skimp. Now to read the last 23 pages and figure out what caps and such to get lol... this should be fun! |
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3rd kyu |
good luck with everything! If you want a pic at some point showing the mounting of the BV314 let me know.
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6th kyu |
Thanks, that will probably be helpful at some point. I guess I should probably start by sourcing the parts Lucio had on page 12 for his C12? I already have a Lawson L47MP so I think I'd like to try for a c12ish sounding mic. Is there one place on the net that I can source all the resistor/capacitor parts from? |
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3rd kyu |
digikey.com
mouser.com or if you want some high endy kind of resistors and caps... partsconnexion.com |
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6th kyu |
Ok thanks. Well this is a list of values I pulled from Lucio's C12 schematic. Any comments? R1 - Remove and add jumper wire R2 - 3w/100k Dale R3 - 1/2w 499k Dale R4 - 1/2w 499k Dale R5 - Remove (move red wire to other side of R5 R6 - 250M Ohmite R7 - 1/2w 2.49k Dale R8 - Remove R9 - 51M (stock?) R10 - 250M Ohmite C1 - 1uf/400V C2 - 1uf/400v C3 - Remove C4 - .001uf/250V Wima (1000pf) C5 - .0047uf/250V Epcos C6 - 22uf/25V Nichicon C7 - Remove C8 - 1.5uf/400V DME C9 - Remove (remove black and green wires) C10 - Remove |
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2nd kyu |
At the time I found parts at Mouser and Allied Electronics, but some stuff was already final stock parts. I don't know about now as it's been awhile.
C1, C2 and R9 are stock in my mics. You could put a 50M Ohmite in R9 if you want. Alot of the more electrical guy's like mbrebes and marik I believe left C1 and C2 alone so I figured, if it's good enough for them....Now I know Michael put films in his, right? The reason that I chose to use Dale resisters was because I saw an interior shot of Peluso's 2247 and 22 251 and they had Dales in there so.....(see above reasoning). Wima I think is pretty accepted as very good. Lucio |
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6th kyu |
Ok thanks. About the only thing I know about electronics, is how to solder. I'm not really familiar with brands or types of parts.. this could get sticky |
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2nd kyu |
You're starting exactly where I did. Besides soldering cables and repairing cold solder joints, this is the first thing that I've done like this. Once you get the mic in your hands and follow the wiring and circuit board (make a drawing, that's what I did), you'll be alright and there are quite a few people on this board that will help you out along the way.
Work slowly and be patient and all will be fine. Lucio |
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3rd kyu |
I used films (panasonic) for C1 and C2. I used Audio Note and Shinkoh, tantalum film resistors, and riken, carbon film resistors. Auricaps for C8 in 1050's and Panasonics (which I'm not that into) in 460's. BTW what did you end up using for C8 Lucio??
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2nd kyu |
Right now I have a 1uf/250v Metalized polyester cap in C8. No idea what the name is, nothing expensive at this point. I know you don't like mylars, but I'm pretty happy even with the inexpensive stuff. I couldn't believe how much the sound filled out once the parts broke in some. I'd like to try something nicer in that spot,but not sure what will fit and no $$$$ right now for much.
Have you ever come across what the originals used in your "travels"? I've seen pics of the insides and they look have a similar appearance as the Auricaps with the large cylinder like look, but of course they didn't make metalized caps back then, right? Maybe they were the paper in oil or something. No clue, but hey looked quite large for a 0.5uf cap. I'm definitely always thinking about what I might try in C8 just for curiosity's sake, but I'm pretty happy sound wise. It still surprises me how much more bass response the CEK-12 has than the CK-47. Lucio |
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6th kyu |
I was actually just going to ask what you were using at C8. Can you gentlemen offer some different high end brands to try for both types? I figure I"ll pick up a few different ones to swap out and test |
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3rd kyu |
Lucio, I think the older stuff are oil caps. It depends on the mic though. I know a lot of companies that do really accurate historical clones (like Wunder Audio, check their site they've got some good close up pics of the innards of the original and their modern equivalents C12 and 47's.) use poly caps.
Some people seem to like Ansar caps. I've checked out Panasonic Metalized Polypropelene caps, they are ok. I did most of my mods to the larger (and IMO easier to work on) 1050, I've mostly used Auricaps there....they seemed to sound "faster" to me. I think all fairly good poly caps are good candidates, I'd experiment with it. Most caps aren't more than a couple bucks. Even the pricey auricaps I used in 1050's were about $11 or so. |
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2nd kyu |
I'll tell ya, even using relatively inexpensive parts make a huge difference.
I figured I'd try different stuff and then spend for "higher end" parts when I got close, if necessary. So far this mic sounds so good with what I have that it's more a curiosity thing for me. Also remember that it's tight inside the 460. The big caps won't fit. The metalized polyester (mylar) sound much better than regular polyester and metalized polypropylene will have a brighter upper range. I might try one of those myself. Initially I didn't want the brightness, but now that it's broken in I'm thinking it might just be the thing to do. Another reason to get a handful of different caps of the same size in different types for a few bucks a piece initially. Just a thought. Lucio |
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5th kyu![]() |
redlir,
Are you modding a 1050 or 460 ? Lucio is right : pay attention at the sizes of the replacement components ! I've bought 3 different values Ansar caps for C8 : 0.68µF, 1µF and 1.5µF. The 1.5µF would fit, but it's pretty tight. An Auricap 1µF won't fit unless you take off the PCBs. eD |
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2nd kyu |
Man, we must be typing at the same time (I suck at typing).
Yeh, I was thinking oil too maybe. So you think just straight polyester in the originals? I've looked at those very pics, but I have no clue just from the pics other than those observations I said above. Ansars were the original mod choice at Home Recording, but because they're metalized polypro they were originally having problems with a lack of bass response. I think that's why Dave increased the size to 1.5uf, especially after removing C6 & C7 the way he does, the mic gets thin otherwise. That's why I got so excited when I started doing the resistor and cap changes that I did because the mic just seemed to get richer and open up without a huge loss in gain. I guess AKG new what they were doing. Anyway... Lucio |
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5th kyu![]() |
increasing the value of R10 would bring some bass...
eD |
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6th kyu |
I'm going to use the 460 because I want to use the AMI TAB transformer. Where did you get your caps from? I notice you're in Canada as well. |
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5th kyu![]() |
I've bought the caps here It's the only place I found. If you found a dealer in Canada, please let me know... eD |
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