all my resisters and transistors are on, im taking a break to eat then im gonna go back at it for a while. i have all weekend to work on this thing since im sick and staying in anyways.

for the record, if i finish this thing and it doesnt work im going to jump off a building because i SUCK at soldering and there's plenty of pieces to this thing

The Sweaty Dudes

Well I got to work on this more than I figured I would but now I'm done till Monday because I don't know how to do coax cable and I can't have anyone show me until then. Even then I'll have to squeeze it in because I'm supposed to have meetings all day Monday and Tuesday

Today I got done

* The rest of the PS board up to the point of the first test. Well, I didn't wire up the torodial transformer yet but anyway..

* The DI jacks wired to the channel boards (I hate soldering wire to those stupid tabs)

* Put the XLR outer shells on the faceplate.

I didn't put the transformers on the channel boards yet because I want to clean the back of the boards at work on Monday before I solder the transformers. No real reason, just preference.

If all goes well, I should be able to post clips by late next week. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.


Jason A.

hey i have a quick question on the xlr connectors...do you just solder all 4 joints for it? I noticed that the middle pin of the 3 linear pins is a lot taller than the others...?

The Sweaty Dudes

quote:

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Originally posted by stubbadub:
hey i have a quick question on the xlr connectors...do you just solder all 4 joints for it? I noticed that the middle pin of the 3 linear pins is a lot taller than the others...?

http://www.sweatydudes.com/forum

---

Yes, if it has a pin, a hole, and a solder pad then I soldered it.

One related problem I had was with the large heatsinks on the PS board. They too have a locating/stabilizing pin that has a corresponding hole and solder pad. However, one one of the two heatsinks, the stops on the pins of the part was lower than the stop on the heatsink even when the part was fully engaged in the heatsink. This leaves the pin of the heatsink so high that it doesn't even fully come through the hole. This makes it very difficult to solder in place. Probably a part defect.

Glad to hear you are moving right along. But you better not finish it this weekend or I'm gonna be REAL jealous.


Jason A.

I have recently realized that the content of some of my posts might have sounded a bit negative about either the kit, Scott Hampton, or Hamptone support. If you have gotten this impression please understand this was in no way my intention. I was only trying to create a journal of sorts documenting each step in the process and a place where difficulties and questions can be documented for future reference.

Hamptone is a one man operation and I truly believe that regardless of how large the company is, his support so far has been exemplary. If you notice, each time I mentioned I was waiting on an answer from Scott, I have recieved an answer in a VERY short amount of time. I have been extremely pleased with both the kit and especially the support.

Overall, the whole process has been a tremendously positive experience and I can't recommend it highly enough.

I hope this clears up any doubts you may have had.


Jason A.

quote:

---

Originally posted by Jason A.:
I have recently realized that the content of some of my posts might have sounded a bit negative about either the kit, Scott Hampton, or Hamptone support. If you have gotten this impression please understand this was in no way my intention. I was only trying to create a journal of sorts documenting each step in the process and a place where difficulties and questions can be documented for future reference...

---

And that's just what we need to hear - the whole story, warts and all!

Keep it up and don't worry so much!

Is there a link for more info to this product (price, pictures, etc.)?

... tacket

http://www.hamptone.com/

-Dusty

Quick update before I duck into meetings.

I got a moment this morning to wire up the torodial transformer to the PS and test the 24V using our variac here in the lab. No smoke, fire, or popping so I was immediately happy. The output ramped right up there to around 28VDC because I forgot to load it like the instructions say.

I am pretty happy at the moment since I didn't blow anything up. I might get a chance to install the other rectifier and test/trim the 48V later on.

Still moving along


Jason A.

Man, this preamp sounds really good. It took me about 12 hours to do the whole thing, but i really took my time and triple-checked everything before i soldered.

A few things that helped me, coming from an extreme beginner:

1. This applet is awesome. you can reverse lookup resistors and type in the value. eventually it helped me remember how to read the values.

2. the holes on the pcb for the grounds from the coax cables that attach to the front pot are too small. i had to dremel these a bit (as well as the ones scott metions)

3. Don't over-tin any of the ptp wires. The holes are just big enough to accomodate the wires. I mostly just twisted them and put the smallest dab of solder on the end, just enough to prevent the indivitual wires from spreading when i inserted them.

4. The anti-rotation tabs on the pots didn't fit the holes on the chassis. I managed to bend one and break off the other.The metal is really fragile so be careful.

5. I couldn't find the large rubber washer for the power transformer. The smaller one is like a white silicone thing. I was originally looking for something like a black rubber washer.

6. Group your resistors by value and lay them all out first. This way you know if there are 4 of the same value, you know that each board will get two. Then you can cross reference that with the parts list.

7. Cross off the stuff you have already installed. This totally helped when i was doing the resistors. I had a hard time reading values, so crossing things off as well as #6 gave me enough to go on.

I agree with Spiral's suggestions and add one more - check your resistors with a multi meter - saves hassles. If you don't have one - buy one - they are cheap and hugely useful.

I finished mine last Sat. and really like the way it sounds.

That's a great suggestion! It's probably one of those obvious things that all kit builders know. I could have shaved 2 hours off i bet. Thanks.

How do those little black flag heatsinks mount?

Dang! All you folks are already done? I probably won't finish until Wed.

I mounted the black flag heatsinks prior to soldering but they just slide right on for the most part. I think two of mine were just the right size and two were a bit loose. I just squeezed the lower portion around the transistors to keep the surface contact.

I divided my resistors first and put them in separate plastic bags and marked them on the outside of the bags. Some were easy to read, some were not. I ended up using a meter to verify as well.

Did any of you have a problem with the coax being too short? I took the wire I had and split it into 4 pieces and even though I haven't actually wired it yet, it looks REAL close. I think it will work but I want to try it with the face plate before I solder it in place just to be safe.

Glad to hear your guy's input. Stick around for a while, I'm sure we'll find more questions to ask.


Jason A.

I'm confused with one part of the PSU board. The instructions are as follows:

===================
5) Install the rectifier B30 in place, this powers the +25.5vdc regulator.

6) Install all the tall electrolytic caps. At this point everything except B30 and the point to point wire should be installed.
===================

Is this a typo? I'm supposed to leave the B30 off to test +25.5vdc first right? Then after that solder it on and test the +48?

<a href="http://www.sweatydudes.com/forum">The Sweaty Dudes</a>

I'm not in front of my instructions but I think it is supposed to be B50 not B30. (I think B50 is the right designator. If not then the other one besides B30)

Basically (as you said) it says install B30 then later says leave B30 off and after the test it says install B30 (if memory serves). But, if you look at the pictures he has one with B50 in by itself. Also, it makes more sense that there would be one type-o in the instructions and not two on the same part which bolsters the "install B50 first" theory. And the best proof...I did it this way and everything measured out just fine during my test.

Hope this helps.


Jason A.

ya, thanks for the help. that makes sense....yet another question!....

is it a typo on the parts list where some of the recifiers are 1000V and others are 100V? There's no indication on the actual diodes that indicates the V and they both have the same part number...any suggestions on that?

i appreciate all of your help a lot

<a href="http://www.sweatydudes.com/forum">The Sweaty Dudes</a>

quote:

---

Originally posted by stubbadub:
ya, thanks for the help. that makes sense....yet another question!....

is it a typo on the parts list where some of the recifiers are 1000V and others are 100V? There's no indication on the actual diodes that indicates the V and they both have the same part number...any suggestions on that?

i appreciate all of your help a lot

The Sweaty Dudes

---

Yes, having the same part number is the give away that it's a typo. But I had to ask Scott about it just in case. This is what he said

quote:

---

The part number is correct, its the same part, the 100v is a typo...

---

Jason A.

I'm pretty sure I trashed my PSU board trying to solder on the 2 parts that have the large heatsinks. My soldering iron kept shitting out on me and I couldn't get those 3 pegs all soldered without solder bridging them. I must have had like 15 attempts on one of the pegs and I think i melted a thing layer of plastic over the thing. we'll see when i test it out...

<a href="http://www.sweatydudes.com/forum">The Sweaty Dudes</a>

Don't worry too much there - most times you can clean off a bridge pretty easily with a copper solder wick - Rat Shak has them in a pinch, or if it isn't too bad you can lightly scrape between the pads.

Don't wait to fire it up - you will likely kill the PSU. Clean up the bridges and check them with a continuity tester (on yer meter, right?)

Also - screw bad irons - $40 buys you a really decent Weller with a fine and wider tip, I used both on my build.

I kept finding myself moving too quick on mine, take your time - if the iron is fucked go get a new one - don't booger your pre, really, it's too nice!